On July 7, Chef Abhishek Sharma opened Badshah at 212 Flatbush Avenue in Brooklyn’s Park Slope, marking a new chapter in the city’s ever-evolving Indian food scene. The restaurant is not just another dining spot – it represents the culmination of a family tradition that spans decades and continents, all reinterpreted for a modern audience.
Sharma, 38, grew up in Flushing, Queens, surrounded by the aromas and techniques of professional kitchens. His family operated several notable Indian restaurants in New York City, including Surya in the West Village, which taught him the importance of hospitality, technique, and preserving culinary traditions. From an early age, he understood that food is more than sustenance; it is a vessel for culture and memory.
But Sharma wanted more than simply continue his family’s legacy. He wanted to evolve it. After operating restaurants like Swagat NYC and a previous venture in Hell's Kitchen, he realized the need to bridge his New York upbringing with his Indian heritage. So he spent six months traveling across India, immersing himself in the country’s diverse regional cuisines – from the street stalls of Mumbai to the coastal kitchens of Mangalore.
A Menu That Crosses India
Badshah’s menu reflects that journey. Instead of focusing on one region, Sharma curates a selection that spans the subcontinent. Diners can start with pani puri – crispy semolina shells filled with spiced potatoes and tangy tamarind-mint water, a classic street food. Then move to smoky Old Delhi chicken tikka, charcoal-grilled to perfection. Other dishes include Lahori seekh kebab (inspired by Lahore’s robust flavors), peppery Kerala-style mutton irachi, and Mangalorean branzino – a coastal fish finished with curry leaf oil and fragrant spices.
But Sharma also introduces modern twists that reflect his New York sensibilities. The menu features Guntur chili chicken bao – soft steamed buns filled with spicy chicken – and coconut fried chicken bites, which combine Southeast Asian influences with Indian spice profiles. These dishes are designed to surprise and delight, proving that Indian food can be both traditional and boldly inventive.
The Five Senses Experience
Sharma understands that today’s diners expect more than just good food. “Now we have to use the element of five senses,” he says. “It has to look good, it has to feel good, the texture has to be there.” This philosophy is evident in the restaurant’s presentation, which blends Indian aesthetics with contemporary plating. The dining room itself reflects this duality – portraits of The Notorious B.I.G. hang alongside images of historic Indian kings, connecting Brooklyn’s cultural icons with India’s royal traditions.
The drink program is equally thoughtful. Wines are selected to complement Indian spices – Riesling and Albariño for lighter dishes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for richer curries. Cocktails are crafted to pair with the food, adding another layer to the multi-sensory experience.
Building on a Legacy
Sharma’s journey into the restaurant business began in his childhood. His family’s kitchens taught him that hospitality is an art form. “My uncles and aunts would always say that the customer is king,” he recalls. That principle guided him as he opened his own restaurants, each time refining his approach to service and flavor.
The name “Badshah” itself means “king” in Urdu, Hindi, and Persian. It is a title that speaks to the restaurant’s ambition – not to dominate, but to reign with grace and quality. Sharma’s previous experiences, including running Swagat NYC and a Hell’s Kitchen establishment, gave him the confidence to launch a concept that truly reflects his vision.
Yet the challenges are real. Rising costs in New York City’s restaurant industry are a constant battle. But Sharma believes that quality and creativity can overcome economic pressures. “Your food could be sexy and beautiful,” he says, emphasizing that Indian cuisine deserves the same level of artistry as any other fine dining tradition.
Brooklyn’s Evolving Palate
Badshah arrives at a time when Brooklyn’s dining scene is increasingly open to global flavors. Park Slope, in particular, has become a destination for innovative restaurants that honor tradition while pushing boundaries. Sharma’s restaurant fits perfectly into this landscape, offering something familiar yet fresh.
The location at 212 Flatbush Avenue near Dean Street places it in a vibrant neighborhood known for its mix of families, professionals, and food lovers. The space itself is designed to feel both intimate and grand, with warm lighting and artwork that sparks conversation.
For decades, New York City’s dining scene has thrived on reinvention. Chefs borrow across cultures as naturally as neighborhoods blend into one another. But in the age of Instagram and TikTok, dining has become performance art. Restaurants must now engage all five senses to stand out. Sharma embraces this challenge, using modern presentation and flavor combinations to create meals that are not just eaten, but experienced.
His travels across India gave him a deep appreciation for regional diversity. He learned that Indian food is not a monolith – it varies from state to state, city to city, street to street. By incorporating these variations into Badshah’s menu, he offers diners a journey through India’s culinary landscape without leaving Brooklyn.
Sharma’s family legacy is not just a background detail; it is the foundation of everything he does. The techniques he learned from his relatives – how to layer spices, how to balance heat with sweetness, how to treat each ingredient with respect – are present in every dish. Yet he also feels free to experiment, knowing that innovation is part of his heritage.
“It is elevated,” Sharma says. “We have cocktails to pair really well with our food. The food presentation is very modern and beautiful, and our service is excellent.” This combination of tradition and innovation is what sets Badshah apart from other Indian restaurants in New York.
As the restaurant settles into its new home, Sharma looks forward to welcoming guests who are curious about Indian food and those who already love it. He hopes that Badshah will become a place where people come to celebrate, explore, and connect – over dishes that tell a story of family, travel, and the endless possibilities of flavor.
The article originally appeared on Brooklyn Patch but has been rewritten here without reference to that source. Badshah is open now at 212 Flatbush Ave. at Dean Street in Park Slope, Brooklyn. For more information, visit Badshah’s website or follow them on social media.
Source:MSN News